If you want killer barbecue in Pittsburgh, here's where to go

When you think of barbecue, you’re likely to think of Carolina mustard, Kansas City sweetness, or Texas brisket. Pittsburgh wouldn’t exactly crack any food critic’s Top 10 Barbecue Cities — if anything, I’ve encountered skepticism that there’s good barbecue in this city at all.

But there is! There may even be the ingredients of some unique local hallmarks among the city’s smokehouses and rib shacks, as Pittsburgh City Paper photographer Mars Johnson and I found. We might not be a barbecue mecca, but we're not a barbecue desert, either.

You may ask: who are we, two white Yankees, to be reviewing the city’s barbecue? I’ll reframe by saying that 1) we set out not so much to evaluate as to appreciate what’s on offer within the Steel City’s borders, and 2) we were both very hungry. There are also many more barbecue places outside Pittsburgh proper, we kept our perusal to the heart of the city, so I present this more as a preview than a comprehensive picture.

Personally, my grad-school experience in the South very much informed what I look for in barbecue, namely tender-smoked meats with rich sauce options, a few high-quality sides — and that’s really it beyond maybe a can of pop. As a rule, the best barbecue tends to come from no-frills joints where everything comes second to the smoking process. My favorite Southerly barbecue place, for example, operated out of the back of a gas station. Those criteria largely determined what Mars and I ate over the past couple weeks.

It should be noted that many of the city’s barbecue spots also serve turkey ribs, which I hadn’t encountered before, and may be worth their own article someday. Those, plus your pork, beef, and chicken staples, and a range of mustardy, deep-orange sauces that trend a little sweeter than the Carolina variety, defined the following Pittsburgh barbecue purveyors.

One last tip: some of these spots close early when they sell out, so plan accordingly!

Showcase BBQ: the boss of sauce

6800 Frankstown Ave. #1370, Homewood

You’ve probably caught a tantalizing whiff of ribs if you’ve driven down Frankstown Ave. in the past 20 years. While Showcase specializes in smoked pork ribs and chicken wings, they also sell other meats and a range of hoagie options along with savory and sweet side dishes.

Showcase’s ribs were extremely tender, and their thick, mustardy sauce was the best we tried (I even dipped other restaurant’s barbecue in it at home). The jumbo smoked wings were also quite good with or without the sauce — try the Woodley combo meal for an ample helping of both chicken and pork. Beyond the meats, Showcase’s greens were incredibly succulent and came packaged with a nice ladle of savory juices. The restaurant was busy with takeout orders when City Paper stopped by, but you can also sit outside on the patio and enjoy the comings and goings of the neighborhood while you dine.

Pittsburgh Barbecue Company: everything you need

1000 Banksville Rd., Banksville

Pittsburgh Barbecue Co. neatly fits the bill of no-frills, everything’s-solid barbecue. For groups, they sell half chickens and meat by weight that’s perfect for picnics — a pound of pulled pork and half a chicken plus sides is three meals for two people if you don’t get carried away (no comment).

Pittsburgh Barbecue also serves a hearty brisket chili and hickory baked beans as well as a nice, dense sweet cornbread. This Banksville Rd. standby has scale figured out and recently expanded to Delmont — just remember, for the Pittsburgh location, it’s a soft right after you exit; otherwise, you have to snake around through a hotel parking lot to get your tender meats.

Walter’s BBQ Southern Kitchen: barbecue block party

4501 Butler St., Lawrenceville

Walter’s often has a line for their many food and drink offerings in the heart of Lawrenceville. If you’re looking for atmosphere with your barbecue, this is the place, though they do offer convenient online ordering and some generously portioned combos if you’re on the go.

Walter’s hews pretty closely to Southern orthodoxy when it comes to their cooking, offering items such as Texas brisket, a savory cornbread mini-loaf, and sumptuous mac and cheese. CP’s one quibble here was the collards we had were a bit bland. That said, the finesse evident in every other dish and sauce, plus Walter’s brunch and veggie options and fun, colorful vibe, make this a worthwhile Butler St. destination, whether for a cocktail or a slow-smoked feast.

Naka EndZone BBQ: sweet heat treat

1310 Crafton Blvd., Crafton Heights

This Crafton Heights spot absolutely nailed it with their tangy hot sauce, tender, falling-apart meats, and delectable sides. While Naka is a takeout-only model, it’s absolutely worth the winding drive down Pa. 60 to grab a clamshell full of deliciousness. Their generous rib dinner was the only case where CP didn’t end up with any leftovers the next day and made Naka a particular highlight on this tour de barbecue.

Like Showcase, Naka has dialed in on their mustardy sauce, but there are also surprising hints of flavor elsewhere, as in their cabbage and greens (is that allspice? Love it) and their cinnamon-sugar-drenched candied yams. Next time, we’ll be getting the sweet smoked corn, as well, and probably upsizing to the dinner for two just to have more to enjoy.

The Dream BBQ: Homewood hideaway

7600 N. Braddock Ave., Homewood

This Braddock Ave. shop would be inconspicuous were it not for the long row of smokers lined up along the curb. The Dream gets those smokers going bright and early each day while prepping a variety of tasty sides to go along with their ribs and chicken (note that they are cash-only but have an ATM on site).

Those sides — the greens and yams in particular — were fresh and delicious, and the seasoning on The Dream’s meat was dreamy indeed, with or without the addition of their traditional or mustard sauces. However, the ribs were a bit tough (could’ve been our early arrival as CP’s first visit found the Dream closed for the day after selling out). Nonetheless, the Dream’s sauce-and-side game is strong. Between Showcase in the west and The Dream in the south, plus lots of private smokers tucked into cute side yards and patios, Homewood just might be the city’s best barbecue neighborhood.

Wilson’s Bar-B-Q: the legend continues

2615 Perrysville Ave., Perry South

The fire that gutted Wilson’s in 2019 cost the North Side one of its most beloved institutions, but Wilson’s “Riblicious” Bar-B-Q is back, baby. Now located on Perrysville Ave. in Perry South, Wilson’s serves the ribs and chicken they've had since 1961 plus pulled pork, brisket, and a Saturdays-only turkey rib option. You can also buy a mason jar of their sauce if you want to drink it through a straw. Do be aware that, if you love spice, Wilson’s hot sauce did not come to play.

Wilson’s impressed CP with their pork ribs’ savory bark, which was one of the most flavorful on this list, as well as their well-executed sides and sauces. This combination of flavor, quality, and reasonably-priced platter options were a good reminder why family, friends, and local leaders rallied around Wilson’s in their hour of need and helped get the 63-year-old barbecue joint back on its feet last year.